As a child, Kenny Wan Mun Hoe, manager of the Newleaf Plantation,
delighted in the flavour of the custard-yellow durian - one of
Malaysia's most popular seasonal fruit his parents brought home each
season for the family.To get more news about
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"I loved it," the 39-year-old Malaysian recalls, his face lighting
up at the memory of how they would mix the unctuous flesh with white
rice. "The durian was always sweet and kids love sweet stuff."
Now with people in China discovering a taste for the fruit, known
for its thorny shell and overpowering smell, Wan has his own durian farm
and ambitions not only to export to mainland China, but to become one
of Malaysia's top growers. But as the appetite for durians grows there,
more trees will be felled to make way for plantations, damaging the
environment further.
"We have seen tremendous growth in the industry and we have also
seen the farm price of fruit increase over time," the former banker and
financier told Al Jazeera on a visit to the 20-hectare farm he bought
four years ago near Raub, a rural town about two hour's drive northeast
of Kuala Lumpur that is renowned for durian.During its two main seasons,
between June and July and again in December, stalls appear along
roadsides in cities and towns across the country, attracting crowds of
devotees.
On a recent Friday evening, in a Kuala Lumpur suburb, a group of
colleagues was feasting on durians under a cavernous white tent where
the spiky fruit was piled on trestle tables. Other stallholders peddled
durian-flavoured ice cream, cream puffs and Japanese desserts.Sammy
Cheang, 41, gingerly picked up the specimens on display, breathing in
the aroma before choosing a Musang King, the most popular and pricey
variety.
"The stronger the smell, the better the taste," she explained,
scooping up a segment of the creamy flesh from the fruit on the table in
front of her.Actually, eating durians reminds us of family," added her
colleague Pei Qi Loh, 26, explaining Malaysians' connection with what is
known in Southeast Asia as the King of Fruits. "At home my father would
go out and buy durian and bring it home for us to eat together; eat
together and stink together."
The four friends, who have put on gloves to eat the fruit, collapse
in laughter. On a neighbouring table, an elderly man sucks the last bits
of the durian from his fingers, as the empty shells pile up.
Durian trees are native to Southeast Asia and popular throughout the
region, even if their powerful smell means they are banned in many
hotels and offices and on public transport.In Malaysia, each variety's
unique flavour reflects the soil and climatic conditions of the place
where they are grown. Tasting notes for a durian can read much like
those for wine.
Musang King, with its golden pulp and creamy texture, was first
discovered near the northeastern town of Gua Musang in the 1980s, is
said to offer a perfect balance of sweet and bitter.
Lindsay Gasik, who has written guides to eating durian and leads
tours for eager tourists, describes the flesh as similar to cookie
dough. Others say its consistency is more like soft cheese. Its
popularity means it commands a higher price than other varieties.
"Almost all Southeast Asian countries produce durians," said Tan Kok
Wai, Malaysia's special envoy to China. "But it is also recognised that
the best durians come from Malaysia; the best tasting and the ones with
the best flavour."
The Wall